Convertible collar for shirts or the like



July 29, 1952 s. s. PAYNE 2,604,628

, CONVERTIBLE COLLAR FOR SHIRTS OR THE LIKE Filed Dec. 28, 1948 3 SheetsSheet l INVENTOR. SAMUEL. G. PAYNE s. s. PAYNE 2,604,628

CONVERTIBLE COLLAR FOR SHIRTS OR THE LIKE 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 July 29, 1952Filed Dec. 28. 1948 INVENTOR. SAMUEL G. PAYNE July 29, 1952 s. e. PAYNE2,504,628

CONVERTIBLE COLLAR FOR SHIRTS OR THE LIKE Filed Dec 28, 1948 3Sheets-Sheet I5 INVENTOR. SAMUEL. G. PAYNE.

Patented July 29, 1952 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CONVERTIBLE COLLARFOR SHIRTS OR THE LIKE Samuel G. Payne; New Bedford, Mass.

Application December 28, 1948, Serial No. 67,607

7 Claims. -1

The subject of this invention is a novel and valuable attached collarfor apparel garments of various kinds, as sport shirts, coats orjackets, raincoats, topcoats or overcoats especially for being Worn ininclement weather, etc. The importance of the invention, and its specialadvantages, for comfort and/ or protection as well as for style, in suchrelations for example as those just enumerated, will be appreciated fromwhat follows in explaining the invention as herein shown embodied, byway of illustration but not by way of. limitation, in connection with aman's sport shirt when used as an outer garment and for wear with orwithout a coat or jacket.

The present invention, for the first time so far as I am aware, providesa collar structure which, while attached to or built into the garment,is readily and perfectly convertible from an informal yet pleasinglyarranged sports collar into a more formal medium high turn-down collarat once highly comfortable and of dressy aspect, and vice versa; and acollar structure whiclnfurthermore, and in either case, whether arrangedas a formal collar or as an informal or sports collar, lies perfectlyflat; and when worn with a tie automatically is caused by'the' drawing.up" of the tie to assume a markedly improved appearance as compared withcollars acting according to the. principle-of compromise shortly belowreferred towhich is to say; in the latter connection, when the top ofthe shirt is closed as by its top button thereby to establish a spacebetween the points where the collar" joins the garment, and. when a tieis used andis drawn up to' not more than comfortable snugness; saidspace closes. until' the collar? meets in front at the now raised foldline. 'I'hereby,v and because the new collar as above presents a mediumhigh neck which is at once very comfortable and of dressy appearance,and further because of the uniquely pleasing: lie of the new collar whenarranged as a sports collanwhat may fairly. be said-to be broadly a newarticle of' manufacture is provided,

' wholly avoiding all the troubles and' objections characteristic of--previously proposed" so--cal l'e d convertible attached collars, andnotably obviating aama-jor defect in -that sucha previous-collarwhen-arranged asasports collar andattemptedto be worn: with a tie hasthe appearance ofanabnormally'low; unpleasingly over-size collar and ly'casual efiect.

Sb calleda convertible attached collars as here-'toforetproposed'haveapparently be'endevised according; to aprinciple ofcompromise as between- 2 the desi'derata in the case of a formal collarand in the case of a sports collar. As will be seen later, the newcollar of the present invention is more akin to the collar typicallymade in the tailoring trade than to the collar typically made in theshirt trade.

While I preferably employ a stiffener insert, as buckram or the like,for a most important new and useful purpose, this insert radicallydiffers from inserts as heretofore proposed; that is, whereas previousproposals have aimed at establishing a controlled or predetermined foldline, or some like such provision, as to establish a strong" foldline inone location and a relatively weakened fold line in another location, mycollar may be folded along any selected one of a plurality of possiblelines at different places on the collar when it is to be worn in thesame way but by" different persons. One of the features of my insert isthat it is cut in a special way on the bias, thereby, I have found, tomake it selfconforming to various postures.

In combination with this insert, and desirably also in combination withanother auxiliary insert preferably of small expanse than thefirst-named insert, other im ortant features are present.

One of these features acts to prevent stretch between certain pointsspaced along the collar, as will later" be explained, thereby to keepthe central longitudinal portion of my new collar of a predeterminedlength when the collar is worn either open or closed. Another of thesefeatures, preferably present, is the novel concept of so cutting andstitching together the" sections of textile material orthe like forproviding a plural-ply collar structure that the lengthof some or all ofsaid sections along a line extending sub-' stantially centrallylongitudinally of the collar is less than their'le'ng'th's at portionsthereof spaced in bothdirections laterally of the collar from said line;this differential length feature preferably in part obtained by makingthe inner and outer plies of the collar structure each oftwo individiially cut slib'divisions stitched" together at a midpoint alongthe length of the collar, these subdivisions at their ends thus stitchedtogether havin'gboth suchends incut in a inanner suggest'ive of: ashallow lazy v.

A further feature ofthe present invention is the manner of cutting whatis termed in the shirt trade'the slope at the neck portion of each frontsection of the mainbody of the garment,;anda corresponding manner ofcutting. the collar structure-at the length subdivisions thereof tobeapplied to said slo-pe at each of the two front and of the objects andadvantages thereof, reference will be had to the following descriptionand accompanying drawings, and to the appended claims in which thevarious novel features of the invention are more particularly set forth.

In the accompanying drawings forming a material part of this disclosure:

Fig. 1 is a view showing the upper portion of a mans outer shirtequipped with a collar structure pursuant to the present invention, withthe garment spread as flat as possible along the collar, and looking atthe back of the shirt from the outside thereof;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, but looking at the inside of thegarment; and with the left front section of the main body of the shirtunnaturally spread to show a normally hidden preferred detail ofconstruction.

7 Fig; 3 fragmentarily shows the garment as seen in Fig. 2 butwith saidunnaturally' spread condition corrected to show said left front sectionas normally arranged at the inside thereof.

Fig. 4 fragmentarily shows the manner of cutting of apiece of theshirting' material, to provide at its upper portion the neckadjacent/porin dot and dash lines.

Fig. 5 is a composite view, showing the two like but reversely cut clothpieces employed for establishing each of the two outer plies of the newcollar structure.

Fig. 6 shows such a ply, spread as flat as possible, following seamingtogether of the two pieces of Fig. 5 along their incut edgescontiguously placed in Fig; 5. 7

Fig. 7 is a view looking at the opposite side of the ply shown in Fig.6, such side of the ply (assuming it to be the ply to be at the outsideof the collar structure as spread flat in Figs. 1 and 2) being its innerside; this Fig. 7 also, in accord ance with said assumption, showingsaid ply after there has been stitched thereto the already mentionedsmaller insert, the latter being shown in Fig. 8, as originally cut, butbefore being rearranged as shown in Fig. 7.

Fig. 8 shows said smaller insert, as so originally cut, with thiscutting inclusive of a central lateralslit, for permitting substantiallytriangular portions of this insertalong opposite sides of said slit tobe overlapped as indicated in Fig. '7.v

Fig. 9 shows the already mentioned insertof buckram or the like, thisalso having a lateral central slit.

Fig. 10 is a view showing the last-named .insert rearranged to impart asubstantially triangular spread at said slit, thereby to lengthen thebottom length of said insert. 7

Fig. 11 illustrates the pile up of all the plies componental of thecollar (except one of the two outer plies of such pile upthis latter,however, fragmentarily indicated in dot and dash lines), preparatory tostitching together all said plies, with said-two outer ones each'insideout, and-so with the parts arranged to provide a dress collar.

Fig. 15 is a similar view, but with the parts I arranged to provide asports collar.

The double hatched areas of Figs. 5, 7-9 and 11 indicate the run of theWarp, that is, how certain important cuts are to be made on the bias tothe straight of the goods.

Referring to the drawings now in more detail, a conventional shirt bodyconstruction is illustrated, comprising the common double back-yokeincorporating an outer yoke ply 29 and an inner yoke ply 2!. Also, thereis a back section 22, a left front section 23 and a right front section24. Two of the yoke seams are indicated at 25, 25. The shirtconstruction as so far described is, as just stated, conventional; inwhich connection it is to be emphasized that the garment to which thenew collar is to be attached need not have a yoke and the front and backjoining seam or seams may be at the shoulders or any other place founddesirable;

However,'at this point referring to Fig. 4, showing a portion of theleft front section 23 of the main body of the garment, it is to be notedthat the slope 2% is cut straight, as contradistinguished from the usualcurvilinearly extended slope as indicatedin dot and dash lines at 21.The reference number 25 is also used in Fig. 2 to indicate there thelocation of said slope, the same extending from about the pointindicated in Fig. 2 at 28 to the point there indicated at 29.

Before next proceeding to a description of the new collar itself,another feature of the shirt illustrated should be explained; that is,the provision of the slots 30 of Fig. 4. The purpose of slots 30 is toallow the left front section 23 to be folded vertically aligning theslots before employing the customary stitching indicated at 32 forattaching the collar to the shirt; said stitching 32 being also used, atthe portion thereof in-- dicated at 33, for closing the upper end of theinturned facing 34 to beat the inner side of the left front section 23,the latter is for carrying buttonholes such as indicated at 35, 35 inFig. 3. With said stitching'33 terminating at the point marked 36 inFig. 2, a pleat formation 31 is formed of the material between the slots3% (compare Figs. 2 and 4). The meeting edges of the front section 23inward of the meeting slots are attached to the bottom edge of thecollar, with the straight edge23 see Fig. 4, forming one-half of therespective yoke seam 25. This feature of the invention may be availed offor augmenting the really beautiful effect obtained when the new collaris arranged as a sports collar as shown in Fig. 15. V the right frontsection-of the main body of the garment, where the shirt'is to have aconvertible collar pursuant to the invention will also be cut and madeas just described in connection with the inturned facing 34; it beingnoted that the facing 34, carrying said buttonholes 35, and also thefacing 38, as for carrying buttons such as indicated at 39, 39, areprojected beyond the meeting point of the base of the .collar and theshirt.

The inturned facing 38 for The facing 38 has its top edge turned inwardand secured to the'base of the collar along the line C by stitches(not-shown) similar to the stitches 33 used tosecure the top edge of thefacing 34 in position, see Fig. 2.

Referring next to the collar itself, and at this point first to Figs.and 6, which is comprised of two outer plies 46 and 5! eachpreparatorily made of two like pieces 40 and 4|. Each of the outer pliesis made by stitching the respective pieces 40 and 4i together at theirshallow-V incut ends ll! and M each such V having preferably straightlegs; and the said stitching running a locus indicated by the dot-anddash lines 40 and 4| thereby to provide a seam 42 which on one side ofthe ply (which is to be the outer face of the collar) appears as inFigs. 1, 2, 6, 14 and 15, and which on the other side of said ply (tobe-the directed inwardly side of the collar assembly) appears as in Fig.7. The pieces 40 and 4| are-cut so that the straight of the goods is'parallel to the slanted ends of such piece, these ends marked 40 and. 41in Fig. 5.

The next step is to attach to outer ply 46, with the latter arranged asin Fig. 7, a lesser auxiliary ply or insert 43 such as shown in Fig. 8.This smaller insert 43 has been satisfactorily made of an ordinaryplain-weave fairly light weight textile material, and is cut to have along straight side 43, and to taper from its central portion toward itsopposite ends by being given a central somewhat convexly rounded bottomedge portion smoothly merging into two straight and upwardly divergingterminal bottom edge portions 43. Laterally centrally thereof the insert43 is slit as indicated at 44, this slit extending almost all the wayacross the width of the insert. The preferred proportions of the insert43, relative to the outer ply 46 made as explained in connection withFigs. 5 and 6, is indicated in Fig. 7.

In said Fig. 7, the outer ply 46, which ply may be assumed to bethat oneof the two outside plies of the collar which is to be at the outside ofthe collar when arranged as in Figs. 1 and 2, is shown as lying flat asin Fig. 6 but with the inseamed marginal portions at the seam 42uppermost so that these marginal portions will for the time being faceinwardly of the collar assembly. Against what, therefore, is later to bethe inside surface of said ply is placed the piece 43, arranged as shownin Fig. 7, that is, with triangular portions of the material of thepiece 43 overlapping due to displacement of the opposite sides of theslit 44 as indicated at 44 and 44 The securement of the piece 43 to saidply is by a single line of stitching 45.

After attaching the piece 43, the ply 46 is laid on a flat surface withthe piece 43 facing downward. Next the outer ply 5| is laid on top ofthe ply 46 with its inturned marginal portions at the seam 42 uppermost.

The next step is to add to the structure of Fig. 7, a stiffener ply 41,as one of buckram or the like, such as shown in Fig. 9. This piece 41,shaped substantially as shown, is cut so that its bottom straight edge41 is at a 45 bias to the straight of the goods. The stifiener ply 41 islaid on top of the outer ply 5 I.

Laterally centrally thereof, and starting 7 at said edge, the stiffenerply 41 has a slit 48. The slit 48 extends only overapproximatelyfslightly less than one-half of the width of the ply 41,where, as is desirable, the collar is made so that when it is laterarranged as a dress collar, the collar at the back' thereof will haveits outer 6 downturned portion of a trifle greater width than the widthof its inner upstanding portion and traversed by the entirety length ofthe slit 46. Then the line of fold given-to the collar to arrange it asa dress collar will not have to be made intersectingly of said slit. Thepreferred proportions of the stiffener ply 41, relative to thesuper-imposed outer plies 46 and 5|, is indicated in Fig. 11. Before thestiffener ply 41 is stitched in place, it is rearranged to establish atriangular opening at the slit 48, to obtain an important advantage aswill be explained in connection with Fig. 10.

Referring to said Fig. 11 in more detail, it will be noted that thestiffener ply 41, when rearranged as to its slit 48 as just explained inconnection with Fig. 10 and when placed on the ply 5| as in Fig. 11(with said ply head spread at its upper portion to flatten out itsrufliing similar to that shown in Fig. 7), may be deposited on said plyto match along its bottom edge portions 41 the bottom edges of the plies46 and 5| and also to cause the stiffener ply 41 to match along its mainslanted end edges 41 the main slanted end edges 40 and 4| of the plies46 and 5|. This ply 41, however, is cut so as not to extend to theextreme outer ends of the terminal portions or horns 58 of the ply5l,'and also desirably so as along its top to parallel but not quiteextend to the upper unclulatory top edge portion 5|" of the respectiveouter ply 5|. Now, it will be noted, the spread at the slit 48 of thepiece 41 is opposite the portions of the piece 43 overlapped at the slit44 of the latter, and with said spread nearly if not exactly matchingthe extent of said overlapped portions of the piece 43, a practicallyuniform thickness at such area is provided.

With the plies 43, 46, 5| and 41 stacked as in Fig. 11, a singlestitching is applied to the stack along the two slanted ends thereof andalong the undulatory top thereof, as pursuant to the dot and dash line49 (compare Figs. 5 and 11). This stitching is indicated at 49' in Fig.12'. It may further be noted at this point that the dot and dash line 50of Fig. 5 indicates the locus of the line of stitching 32, alreadydiscussed, whereby the completed collar is attached to the upper portionof the shirt.

The next step is to turn the collar structure inside out, thereby toarrange the parts as in Fig. 12, and as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 14 and 15;preparatory to attaching the collar structure to the shirt by the lineof stitching 32 as already explained. Turning is accomplished by movingthe outer ply 46 over the top edge of the collar so that its attachedply 43 finally faces the stiffener ply 41. I

Following or prior to said attachment, but after the turning of thecollar structure inside out, a line of stitching 52 of shallow invertedV extension is sent through all the four plies of the collar structure;this stitching 52 serving to tack down the top edge (43 Fig. 8) of thesmaller insert 43. Note that the apex (52 Fig.

2) of such V is at a height just a trifle less than the height of thecentral point along a possible fold line indicated in dot and dash at 53in Figs. 1 and 2 this line when used resulting in the formation of adress collar having all the advantages aforesaid and as shown in Fig.14.

In applying the stitching 52 it is desirably made long enough so thatone end subdivision (52 Fig. 2) thereof may serve to tack down the upperportion of the inturned facing 38, and

so that the other end subdivision (51 Fig. 1) thereof may serve to tackdown the upper portion of the inturned facing 34. This is an economyfeature; in which connection it may be explained that in most cases theinside long edge of said facing is placed at the selvage of the cloth tosave an operation of finishing at what otherwise would be a raw edge.

The already mentioned unusually attractive appearance of the collar whenarranged as a sports collar is shown clearly in Fig. 15. The collar,however worn, has the center of its fold line at substantially the samelocation, that is, substantially as indicated at A in Fig. 2.

With a slope and the matching part of the collar cut as above in astraight line, the collar lies perfectly flat when pressed, or when theskirt is open to the second top button or even with the shirt closed atthe top button. The bias construction permits the outer portion of thecollar to stretch sufllciently to present .a,

medium high neck, very comfortable and of dressy appearance, especiallytrue when a tie is worn. The feature illustrated in connection withFigs. 5 and 6 shapes the collar so that as a dress collar it standsproperly erect, yet so that as a sports collar it assumes naturally theunusually efiective drape shown in Fig. 15. ihe lesser insert 43,particularly when tacked down along its top edge'as explained, by thestitching'52, is primarily if not solely for the purpose of preventingstretch between the points marked A and B and between said point A andthe point B in Fig. 2; thus maintaining the collar size and keeping thecentral longitudinal portion of the collar the shortest when the collaris worn either open or closed.

As hereinabove first stated, the invention is applicable to othergarments than shirts; for instance, jackets or coats. The new collar isparticularly valuable for inclusion in a raincoat or other outer coat tobe worn in inclement Weather. In such a case, the collar points woulddesirably be shortened, and could be given a rounded or any style changewithout departing in any way from the invention,

While I have illustrated and described the preferred embodiment of myinvention, it is to be understood that I do not limit myself to theprecise construction herein disclosed and the right is reserved to allchanges and modifications coming within the scope of the invention asdefined in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire tosecure by United States Letters Patent is:

l. A structure for a collar to be permanently attached to the main bodyof a garment and then to be convertible from a dress collar to a sportscollar and vice versa, said structure including two outer plies one tobe at the inner side and the other at the outer side of the collar whenspread fiat, and a stiffener insert between said plies, said insertbeing substantially coextensive in expanse with said plies and beinglaterally slit across approximately one half of the width of the acollar when spread flat, said slit being extended in from thelongitudinal edge of said stiffener insert which is attached to saidbody, the portions of the material of said insert along opposite sidesof said slit being spread toform an inverted' shaped notch, a portion ofthe collar along its longitudinal edge, and where the collar is attachedto said body, being cut straight, said insert being ofbuckram or thelike cut at approxi-' mately a 45 bias to the straight or the goods,said outer plies being cut longitudinally at a bias to the straight ofthe goods, each of said outer plies being comprised of two like butreversely arranged end aligned elongated sections having adjacentV-shaped re-entrantly cut end edges seamed together.

2. A structure for a collar to be permanently attached to the main bodyof a garment and then to be convertible from a dress collar to a sportscollar and vice versa, said structure including two outer plies one tobe at the inner side and the other at the outer side of the collar whenspread flat, and a stiffener insert between said plies, said insertbeing substantially coextensive in expanse with said plies and beinglaterally slit across approximately one half of the width of the collarwhen spread fiat, said slit being extended in from the longitudinal edgeof, said stiffener insert which is attached to said body, the portionsof the material of said insert along opposite sides of said slit beingspread to form an inverted V- shaped notch, a portion of the collaralong its longitudinal edge, and where the collar is attached to saidbody, being out straight, said insert being of buckram or the like cutat approximately a 45 bias to the straight of the goods, said outerplies being cut longitudinally at a bias to the straight of the goods,each of said outer plies being comprised of two like but reverselyarranged end aligned elongated sections, having adjacent V-shapedre-entrantly cut end edges seamed together and a less extensive and lessstiff auxiliary insert between said stiffener insert and that one ofsaid plies which is to be the outer ply of the collar when spread flat.

3. A structure for a collar to be permanently attached to the main bodyof a garment and then to be convertible from a dress collar to a sportscollar and vice versa, said structure including two outer plies one tobe at the inner side and the other at the outer side of the collar whenspread flat, and a stiffener insert between said plies, said insertbeing substantially coextensive in expanse with said plies and beinglaterally slit across approximately" one half of the width of the collarwhen spread fiat, said slit being extended in from the longitudinal edgeof said stiffener insert which is attached to said body, the portions ofthe material of said insert along opposite sides of said slit beingspread to form an inverted V-shaped notch a portion of the collar alongits longitudinal edge, and where the collar is attached to said body,being cut straight, said insert being of buckram or the like out atapproximately a 45 bias to the straight of the goods, said outer pliesbeing cut longitudinally at a bias to the straight of the goods, each ofsaid outer plies being comprised of two like but reversely arranged endaligned elongated sections, having adjacent V?- shaped re -entrantly cutend edges seemed together and a less extensive and less stifi auxiliaryinsert between said stiffener insert and that one of said plies which isto be the outer ply of the collar when spread flat, said auxiliaryinsert being substantially triangular and of small altitude compared toits base length and being placed in the collar structure with such baselength at said longitudinal edge of the collar and with its portion ofgreatest width adjacent to the slit of the first-named insert.

{LA structure for a collar to be permanently attached to the main bodyof a garment and then to be convertible from'adress collar 'to a aeoaeessports collar and vice versa, said structure including two outer pliesone to be at the inner side and the other at the outer side of thecollar when spread flat, and a stiffener insert between said plies, saidinsert being substantially coextensive in expanse with said plies andbeing laterally slit across approximately one half of the width of thecollar when spread fiat, said slit being extended in from thelongitudinal edge of said stiffener insert which is attached to saidbody, the portions of the material of said insert along opposite sidesof said slit being spread to form an-inverted V-shaped notch, a portionof the collar along its longitudinal edge, and Where the collar isattached to said body, being cut straight, said insert being of buckramor the like cut at approximately a 45 bias to the straight of the goods,said outer plies being cut longitudinally at a bias to the straight ofthe goods, each of said outer plies being comprised of two like butreversely arranged end aligned elongated sections having adjacentV-shaped reentrantly cut end edges seamed together and a less extensiveand less stifi auxiliary insert between said stiffener insert and thatone of said plies which is to be the outer ply of the collar when spreadflat, said auxiliary insert being substantially triangular and of smallaltitude compared to its base length and being placed in the collarstructure with such base length at said longitudinal edge of the collarand with its portion of greatest width adjacent to the slit of thefirst-named insert, said auxiliary insert adjacent to its said portionof greatest width being laterally silt.

5. A structure for a collar to be permanently attached to the main bodyof a garment and then to be convertible from a dress collar to a sportscollar and vice versa, said structure including two outer plies one tobe at the inner side and the other at the outer side of the collar whenspread fiat, and a stiffener insert be tweensaid plies, said insertbeing substantially coextensive in expanse with said plies and beinglaterally slit across approximately one half of the width of the collarwhen spread flat, said slit being extended in from the longitudinal edgeof said stiffener insert which is attached to said body, the portions ofthe material of said insert along opposite sides of said slit beingspread to form an inverted V-shaped notch, a

portion of the collar along its longitudinal edge,

and where the collar is attached to said body, being out straight, saidinsert being of buckram or the like cut at approximately a 45 bias tothe straight of the goods, said outer plies being cut longitudinally ata bias to the straight of the goods, each of said outer plies beingcomprised of two like but reversely arranged end aligned elongatedsections having adjacent V-shaped re entrantly cut end edges seamedtogether and a less extensive and less stiff auxiliary insert betweensaid stifiener insert and that one of said plies which is to be theouter ply of the collar when spread fiat, said auxiliary insert beingsubstantially triangular and of small altitude compared to its baselength and being placed in the collar structure with such base length atsaid longitudinal edge of the collar and with its portion of greatestwidth adjacent to the slit of the first-named insert, said auxiliaryinsert adjacent to its said portion of greatest width being laterallyslit, said slit starting at said base of the auxiliary insert andextending almost over iii) 10 the entirety of the width of thelast-named insert.

6. A structure for a collar to be permanently attached to the main bodyof a garment and then to be convertible from a dress collar to a sportscollar and vice versa, said structure including two outer plies one tobe at the inner side and the other at the outer side of the collar whenspread flat, and a stifiener insert between said plies, said insertbeing substantially coextensive in expanse with said plies and beinglaterally slit across approximately one half of the width of the collarwhen spread flat, said slit being extended in from the longitudinal edgeof said stifiener insert which is attached to said body, the portions ofthe material of said insert along opposite sides of said slit beingspread to form an inverted V-shaped notch, a portion of the collar alongits longitudinal edge, and where the collar is attached to said body,being cut straight, said insert being of buckram or the like cut atapproximately a 45 bias to the straight of the goods, said outer pliesbeing cut longitudinally at a bias to the straight of the goods, each ofsaid outer plies being comprised of two like but reversely arranged endaligned elongated sections having adjacent V-shaped reentrantly cut endedges seamed together and a less extensive and less stifi auxiliaryinsert between said stiffener insert and that one of said plies which isto be the outer ply of the collar when spread flat, said auxiliaryinsert being substantially triangular and of smalLaltitude compared toits base length and being placed in the collar structure with such baselength at said longitudinal edge of the collar and with its portion ofgreatest width adjacent to the slit of the first-named insert saidauxiliary insert adjacent to its said portion of greatest width beinglaterally slit, said slit starting at said base of the auxiliary insertand extending almost over the entirety of the width of the last-namedinsert, the portions of the material of the last-named insert alongopposite sides of its slit being overlapped.

7. A structure for a collar to be permanently attached to the main bodyof a garment and then to be convertible from a dress collar to a sportscollar and vice versa, said structure including two outer plies one tobe at the inner side and the other at the outer side of the collar whenspread flat, and a stiffener insert between said plies, said insertbeing substantially coextensive in expanse with said plies and beinglaterally slit across approximately one half of the width of the collarwhen spread fiat, said slit being extended in from the longitudinal edgeof said stiffener insert which is attached to said body, the portions ofthe material of said insert along opposite sides of said slit beingspread to form an inverted V-shaped notch, a portion of the collar alongits longitudinal edge, and where the collar is attached to said body,being cut straight, said insert being of buckram or the like out atapproximately a 45 bias to the straight of the goods, said outer pliesbeing cut longitudinally at a bias to the straight of the goods, each ofsaid outer plies being comprised of two like but reversely arranged endaligned elongated sections having adjacent V-shaped re-entrantly cut endedges seamed together and a less extensive and less stiff auxiliaryinsert between said stifi'ener insert and that one of said plies whichis to be the outer ply of the collar when spread fiat, said auxiliaryinsert being substantially triangular and of small altitude compared toits base length and being placed in the collar structure with such baselength at said longitudinal edge of the collar and with its portion ofgreatest width adjacent to the slit of the first-named insert, saidauxiliary insert adjacent to its said portion of greatest width beinglaterally slit, said slit starting at said base of the auxiliary insertand extending almost over the'entirety of the width of the last-namedinsert, the'portions of the material of the lastnamed insert alongopposite sides of its slit being overlapped, said auxiliary insert beingtacked down along its downwardly diverging upper side's, thereby toprevent stretch of the collarstructure for maintaining the central 15longitudinal portion of the collar the shortest when the collar isWorn'either open or'closed. SAMUEL G. PAYNE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent: 7

UNITED STATES PATENTS 10 Number Name 1 Date 2,255,362 Nirenberg Sept. 9,1941 2,345,764 May Apr. 4, 1944 2,385,729 Powell Sept. 25, 19452,433,523

-Lowe -Dec. 30, 1947

